Tunisia’s lesson of tolerance in all the forms it takes has been hard-earned. The North African nation offers to the broader communities of Muslims, Jews and Christians across the globe a rare example of tolerance, which the pilgrimage to El Ghriba illustrates to perfection.
El Ghriba Synagogue is located on the island of Djerba in the South of Tunisia. It is situated in the Jewish village of Hara Sghira, a few kilometers southwest of Houmt El Souk, Djerba’s main town. The synagogue is the oldest and most important in Africa, is a site of pilgrimage, one of the legends associated with its founding claims that either a stone or a door from Solomon’s Temple or the Second Temple is incorporated in the building.
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Djerba, is an island where many of the inhabitants are from the very tolerant Muslim Ibadi minority. Djerba’s Muslim majority inhabitants are generally conservative, well-educated and excellent businessmen and have lived alongside their Jewish neighbors.
The Muslim-majority Tunisia is home to one of the largest Jewish communities in North Africa. Though they now number less than 2,000 people, Jews have lived in Tunisia since Roman times.
El Ghriba Synagogue: Historical & Cultural Background
The legend says that after the destruction of King Solomon’s temple in 586 BC, the El Ghriba synagogue was founded. On the other hand, it is more likely that it was founded following the destruction of the Second Temple in Jerusalem in 70 AD. A Jewish necropolis in Gammarth, Tunisia, provides tangible evidence of Jews in the country two centuries before Christ, when Carthage was the political and commercial center of a powerful Phoenician empire that stretched from Spain to Libya. A number of Carthaginian rabbis are mentioned in the Talmud.
The legalization of Christianity by the Roman Empire and Byzantine control in North Africa preceded the more famous persecutions of the Jews and other Christian minority that occurred in Europe during the following three centuries. Despite the fluctuating relationship between Jews and Muslims over the 1,400 years of Muslim rule in Tunisia, in general, they were never treated as harshly as European Christians treated them during the 13th century and throughout the 20th century.
During the Second World War, when the Germans controlled Tunisia, many Tunisian Muslims were involved in helping to hide Jews. For example, Khaled Abdul-Wahab of Mahdia, who sheltered Jews in his olive oil processing facility, is credited with saving many lives.
During the Second World War, when the Germans controlled Tunisia, many Tunisian Muslims were involved in helping to hide Jews. For example, Khaled Abdul-Wahab of Mahdia, who sheltered Jews in his olive oil processing facility, is credited with saving many lives.
Abdul-Wahab was the first Arab to be nominated to recognition at the Yad Vashem memorial in Jerusalem as one of the Righteous Among the Nations — non-Jewish individuals who defended jews and helped them to escape the murderous policy of the Nazis. Hundreds of others in Tunisia and neighboring Algeria should be recognized for saving many Jews from the clutches of the German Army or French Vichy officials.
Abdul-Wahab was the first Arab nominated to Yad Vashem’s Righteous Among the Nations honor roll, which honours non-Jews who assisted Jews during the Holocaust. Many others in Tunisia and Algeria, as well as other neighboring countries, should be credited with rescue the many Jews who were being held captive by the German army and French Vichy officials.
Moncef Bey did everything he could to help the Jews of Tunisia avoid the anti-Semitic legislation of Vichy France and the Germans, whereas nationalist leader Habib Bourguiba would have no truck with Marshal Petain or Benito Mussolini.
Suggested Read: 10 Most Exciting ‘Live Like a Local’ Experiences & Things To Do in Djerba
During the famous yearly Jewish pilgrims, many get astonished to hear those stories from the second world war.
Anyone who hears such stories, gets surprised about the behavior of Jerba’s inhabitants, mostly Muslims, towards their Jewish peers, notably during the months during which German troops occupied the country.
El Ghriba synagogue lies a few kilometers outside the major town of Houmt Souk in Harra Sghira (also called Er-Riadh). The nearby Jewish village of Hara Kbira, where most of the island’s Jews live, boasts a school for Jewish girls and one for Jewish boys.
The synagogue actually stands on the site of a much older building. It’s been there since the fourth or sixth century. One of the legends associated with its founding claims that either a stone or a door from King Solomon’s temple or the second temple is incorporated in the building, connecting the Jewish diaspora to “the sole sanctuary of Judaism,” in Jerusalem. A pilgrimage takes place every year on the 33rd day of the Counting of the Omer, in between Pesach and Shavuot. Besides the pilgrimage, the entire Jewish community meets in El Ghriba on Shabbat, the synagogue being kept in high regard by all the Jews of Djerba. The name “El Ghriba” means “the marvelous”, or “the strange”, in Arabic, and reflects the special status of the synagogue in the traditions of the Jews of Tunisia.
Nowadays, the local Tunisian Jews are distinguished by their distinct dress. Although they represent a relatively small minority compared to the over 110,000 who lived in Tunisia prior to its independence from France in 1956, these former residents of Tunisia serve as a reminder of a time when religion was not as politically manipulated, and people viewed themselves as Tunisian citizens rather than Jews, Muslims, or Christians.
The El Ghriba is administered by an independent administrative body that was established at the end of the nineteenth century, under Jerba’s colonial rule by France. The committee’s primary preoccupation became organizing the pilgrimage to El Ghriba, particularly for Lag Ba’Omer (the 33rd day following Pesach). The enormous funds earned from the pilgrimage and the rentals from the synagogue’s lands and stores were used to support the elderly Jewish people of Hara Sghira as well as the local regular synagogue goers and Torah scholars.
The main annual pilgrimage festivities take place during Lag Ba’Omer: they begin on 14 Iyar, the day on which Jews commemorate Rabbi Meir Ba’al HaNess’s death, and continue through 18 Iyar, the day on which Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, locally known as Rebbi Shem’un, is remembered.
A Rare Example of Religious Tolerance for Muslims & Jews
Thousands of pilgrims from all across the globe go to El Ghriba every year, many are Muslim inhabitants of Djerba who would like to share the festivities of their Jewish neighbors. Tunisian Jews walk arm in arm with their Muslim friends. Such scenes will do little to change relations between Arab Muslims and Jews more broadly but they offer a flicker of hope for the future.
The pilgrimage, locally known as ‘Ziyarat El Ghriba’, includes a visit to the synagogue, alms offering, prayers, and participation in one of the yearly festival’s two popular processions.
The procession also includes stops at other Hara Sghira prayer houses. The participants spin a giant pyramidal lamp (the Menorah). The chandelier is adorned with symbols representing what is known as the twelve tribes, the names of venerated Tunisian rabbis, the names of the three Patriarchs and four Matriarchs, blessings in honor of Rabbi Meir Ba’al HaNess and Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, and a Star of David (Magen David) containing the inscription Shaddai (the name of the Divinity). The building is capped with the Law’s two tablets. The chandelier is adorned with a variety of fabrics, brightly colored scarves, and veil-like veils like those worn by brides, hence the alternate name Arousa (“the betrothed”).
The entire procession resembles a wedding ceremony and symbolizes the mystical marriage of Jewish people with God. The participants sing praise songs to Rebbi Shem’un, including one that begins, “Ya Rebbi Shem’un, oaktash tjina ou tna’hi lgalut min aalina!” (Oh, Rabbi Shimon, when will you return to save us from exile!). The chandelier is introduced into El Ghriba in the evening, and candles are lit on each of its five rows. Local Jews from all settlements on Jerba, as well as foreign pilgrims, congregate within the synagogue; this is also the one occasion when men and women are not separated.
Inside the synagogue, which offers a lavish exercise in blues, people mingle, talk in different languages such as Hebrew, Arabic, French and English. Rabbis from different nations exchange news and views. In one corner, you may find older men drunk boukha, the traditional Jewish Tunisian alcohol distilled from figs to bless the pilgrims. Boukha traditionally accompanies Kemia, the local equivalent of what is known today as “tapas.”
All of this is usually accompanied by a large crowd who sing old Tunisian songs while an orchestra plays and traditional Tunisian dishes could be served.
Tunisia’s lesson of tolerance in all the forms it takes has been hard-earned. As a young democracy, the country offers to the broader communities of Muslims, Jews and Christians around the world a rare example of tolerance, which the pilgrimage to El Ghriba illustrates to perfection. The annual pilgrimage offers as well an opportunity for Tunisian to reaffirm it remains a land of tolerance and openness.
Similar Read: Tunisian-Jewish Gastronomy Contributes to the Charm of Djerba
TOP QUESTIONS
For its special historical, religious and cultural significance. El Ghriba Synagogue is the oldest in Tunisia and in Africa. It is an important site of pilgrimage for Jews from all across the globe during Lag B’Omer.
People believe that it was built around 500 B.C. by Jews who had fled after the Roman destruction of the First Temple of Jerusalem.
Visiting El Ghriba Synagogue
This Synagogue, the oldest in Africa, is one of the Tunisia’s most remarkable and greatest sites — very beautiful and fascinating. A fantastic place to visit and so much history surrounding this Synagogue. It should not be missed when you are interested in religious buildings. Some very unusual features to discover.
Know Before You Go
El Ghriba Synagogue is located in the middle of the city of El Hara Sghira (also called Er-Riadh), and is difficult to miss while you are there. Please dress appropriately when visiting as it is an active place of worship. Non-Jewish are allowed to enter. Keep in mind that there is extremely strict security clearance, passport required.
Feel free to stop for a tea or coffee in the village, and marvel at the exterior before venturing inside.
Location
- Address: El Ghriba, Er-Riadh (Harah Sghira) Djerba, Tunisia
- Transport: Local guides or Taxis from anywhere in the island can take you there
- Schedule: Opening hours are 8am-2pm
- Entrance Fee/Ticket Price: There’s no entrance fee
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2 comments
[…] has it that the synagogue on the island of Djerba was founded at the time of the destruction of the First or Second Jewish Temple in Jerusalem in either 586 BCE or 70 C.E., and contains a stone from the temple. Today the […]
[…] has it that the synagogue on the island of Djerba was founded at the time of the destruction of the First or Second Jewish Temple in Jerusalem in either 586 BCE or 70 C.E., and contains a stone from the temple. Today the […]